THE MOLE V1.1 DOUBLE ACTION, SWITCH MACHINE KIT
Note - If you are assembling an original single action Mole, the instructions are slightly different and you should click the Mole 1.0 instructions link on the left. If you wish to inexpensively upgrade an earlier Mole 1.0 to a Double Action Mole 1.1, please see the ordering box below
The Mole operates from switched +/- 12 v DC at nominal 30 mA stall current, using the 2 x 200 Ohm resistors (included). That means it can be operated from exactly the same (or existing) 12v supply and DPDT switches as traditional larger stall motors. Note it is NOT intended to be operated at higher or lower voltages, NOR should it ever be used without the included two resistors in series.
The MOLE is Supplied in partly assembled kit form. Mounting hardware and fixing screws for all mounting options are included.
Currently the kit is provided with a finished, plastic encased, motor body, to which one thick and one thin spring steel music wire have been already attached, together with a parts bag containing the stainless steel frame fret and the remaining small parts.
You first need to cut the stainless steel parts from the fret. They can usually be broken away at the tabs, by carefully hand twisting the individual parts. Alternately use HARDENED side cutters or a Dremel with a "409" fine cutting disk, BUT YOU MUST USE PROPER SAFETY EYE PROTECTION IF USING A POWER CUTTING DISK. In all cases you should take care to look for any sharp edges left at the cut away tabs and use a file or small sanding stone to safely blunt them
Loosen and temporarily remove the two Phillips screws in the Mole motor case and put the screws to one side. Add one frog power switch solder terminal onto each screw.
Bend the sloped ends of the side plates UP at the score lines to approximately 50-70 degrees, as shown, until you feel the stronger resistance to bending. ONLY BEND THEM ONCE AND DO NOT TRY TO BEND THEM TO A FULL 90 DEGREES OR REPEATEDLY.
Note the side plates have two mounting positions, which determine whether the motor has a short throw or a long throw. You may choose whether to mount the side plates in the short throw (inner) or long throw (outer) position. If in doubt, assemble as a short throw and try the operation movement manually before installation. The plate positions can easily be changed again before settling on the final installation.
Now clip the two resistor power leads to a convenient length, and solder one to each motor power lead as shown. It is sometimes useful to curl the other ends for easy attachment to a screw terminal block.
If you are going to wire up and use the integrated frog switch, then it is far better solder a flying lead now to each terminal, before replacing the screws. Heating the terminal and screw after it is remounted into the motor could damage the motor plastic body fastening.
Making sure the thick rod is first aligned centrally along the inner length of the motor body, mount the Stainless Steel side plates on to the motor body as shown, using the original the two Phillips screws (and terminals) from the top of the plastic motor body, prior to adding the side plates.
Do not over tighten the screws, or the side plates may bend.
While your soldering iron is on, now is also a good time to solder a third lead to the small plated center frog contact tube. This can then be slid into position and glued later.
For the rest of the instructions, for clarity, the Mole will be shown without the frog switch wiring in place.
MOTOR MOUNTING STYLE DECISION POINT
Now we are at the point where we choose whether to complete the Mole Operating Mechanism as a "Traditional" under the baseboard mounting switch machine, or as a " Single or Double, Side Action" horizontal surface mounted machine. With some limitations, it is also possible to reverse the decision later.
TO FINISH THE MOLE AS A SIDE ACTION MACHINE CLICK HERE.
TO FINISH THE MOLE AS A TRADITIONAL STYLE MACHINE, CONTINUE TO FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS WRITTEN IN BLUE BELOW.
Loosen the two body mounting screws slightly, so the frames can be pulled away from the body. Bend the mounting tabs at the ends of the frames UP to almost 90 degrees as shown. Use small pliers to hold the rest of the frame flat, so the frames do not bend at the mounting holes. ONLY BEND THEM ONCE AND DO NOT TRY TO BEND THEM REPEATEDLY. Return the frames back to position as shown and lightly re-tighten the body screws.
Then fit the supplied long 2-56 machine screws through the empty mounting holes.
Tun the motor over and fix the two small mounting angle brackets to the other ends of the 2-56 screws, using the star washers and nuts supplied. Turn the brackets be flush with the motor body end as shown and tighten moderately. Adding a small amount of "loctite" (weak CA glue) the to the nut thread will ensure it doesn't loosen over time.
The traditional vertically mounted version of the Mole is now complete, and may be mounted under the baseboard using the four wood screws provided.
SKIP THE ALTERNATE INSTRUCTIONS FOR FITTING THE SIDE ARM AND GO TO THE TOP OF THE PAGE, BY CLICKING HERE
TO FINISH THE MOLE AS A SIDE ACTION MACHINE, CONTINUE TO FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS WRITTEN IN RED BELOW.
The specific parts for mounting the side arm are as shown above. Note that only one slide channel has a slot. There is also a choice of two action arms. A shorter single acting and a longer double ended one, which also has multiple wire linking holes..
First insert the two plastic bushes COMPLETELY through the end holes of the un-slotted slide channel. Note they should be inserted from the flat side to protrude through the channeled side
Pick the type of operating arm you want and bend up the center tag to almost 90 degrees. Note also that the arm can be reversed to operate out of either side of a horizontally installed Mole. Place it flat, with the tag upright, into the slide channel base as shown.
If using the extended arm, you have the option of bending it to allow for slightly lower (buried) motor mounting position.
It is important to grip the flat section of the arm firmly at each of the "double dot" bending positions with small pliers, to ensure that the arm does not bend at the wrong places.
Now press the other (slotted) slide channel over the top, channeled side inwards, onto the protruding bushes, so that the arm is free to slide, and the tab is sticking up out of the slot. BUT ENSURE BOTH SLIDE CHANNEL PARTS ARE PRESSED TOGETHER AND ALL THE WAY DOWN ONTO THE FLANGES OF BOTH BUSHES.
The assembled arm and slide is offered up the correct way round as shown, to be first slid onto the thin operating wire, then to be fitted to the motor, by the 2-56 side frame mounting screws. The tab is to be upright and the bush flanges are to be downward, directly sitting onto the two side frames.
Still keeping the slide assembly flat against the sideframes, the motor is turned upside down and the the star washers and nuts lightly fixed onto the ends of the 2-56 screws.
Finally, back on the top side. Tighten the 2-56 screws an extra couple of turns, so that the core of the plastic bushes expands slightly and firmly locks the two halves of the slide casing together.
The Side Action version of the Mole is now complete and ready for installation!