THE MOLE SWITCH MACHINE KIT
ASSEMBLY, INSTALLATION AND USE GUIDE

THE MOLE is a powerful stall motor SWITCH MACHINE that is similar to the larger "Traditional" Switch Machines, but in a much smaller package, at a much lower price, and with additional included features, including an optional "Sideways Operating Arm". It too has built in SPDT power contacts for frog powering or signals.



"I AM A MOLE AND I LIVE IN A HOLE"

Unlike larger machines, THE MOLE is also small enough to be more accessibly surface mounted. It's even ideally sized to fit completely within the new standard modern 2" foam baseboard construction. Using it's unique "side arm", it can be located directly by its turnout, or even more conveniently remotely surface or hidden mounted, driving the turnout invisibly via one of our wire in tube linkages.

Other (included) unique features include both adjustable throw distance and wire-less remote transmission of frog power via it's wire in tube linkage.



And for those who still prefer to crawl under their baseboards, ;) , the mole can be mounted and used in the same way and place as larger motors, but of course, takes up far less space and depth.



The Mole operates from +/- 12 v Dc at nominal 30 mA.
With 2 x 200 Ohm resistors (included). That means it can be operated from exactly the same (or existing) 12v supply and DPDT switches as traditional larger stall motors.



Supplied in partly assembled kit form and fully assembled for a little extra. Mounting hardware and fixing screws are included. A Six Kit pack is also available.

ASSEMBLY GUIDE:

Currently the kit is provided with a finished, plastic encased, motor body, to which one thick and one thin spring steel music wire have been already attached, together with a fret and some screws, etc.

You first need to cut the stainless steel parts from the fret. They can be broken away at the tabs, by hand. Alternately use HARDENED side cutters or a Dremel with a "409" fine cutting disk, but you must use proper safety eye protection if using the cutting disk.







Bend the sloped ends of the side plates UP at the score lines to approximately 50-70 degrees, as shown, until you feel the stronger resistance to bending. Only bend them once and do not try to bend them to a full 90 degrees or repeatedly.



Next make sure the thick wire is aligned centrally along the inner length of the motor body



Remove the two philips screws from the top of the plastic motor body, prior to adding the side plates. The side plates have two mounting positions, which determine whether the motor has a short throw or a long throw. You should now decide whether to add the side plates in the short throw (inner) or long throw (outer) position. If in doubt, assemble as a short throw and try the operation movement manually before installation. The plate positions can easily be changed again before installation.



Use the two removed screws to attach the side plates in the manner shown, but also add the two electrical solder tags to the screws first, if you want to use the SPDT SWITCH FEATURE. Do not over tighten the screws, or the side plates will bend.



The other end of the side plates are fixed in place using the 2-56 bolts and nuts through the holes in the plastic body. Before attaching them, first decide if you wish to fit the optional sideways operating arm. IF SO, THEN SKIP DOWN PAST THIS SECTION to the SIDEWAYS ARM INSTRUCTIONS. If not, then continue here.

The Switch motor can be mounted/installed to any wood strut or aperture parallel to the top surface, using the four #4 self tapping wood screws and any of the top surface mounting holes and/or slots.



If however you require the motor to be installed against the underside of a flat surface, such as a sub-roadbed, then you may irreversibly convert the solid arm part to a mounting bracket, by bending the end through 90 degrees with a small pair of pliers as shown.



Then the bracket is attached to the body with the nuts at the other end of the #2-56 bolts. Apply a little ACC glue to the bolt threads after tightening the nuts, to prevent them loosening in use.



The far ends of the side plates can also be bent upwards approximately 80 degrees, to provide matching mounting tabs on the top side of the body.

NOW SKIP PAST THE SIDE ARM SECTION TO THE WIRING AND COMPLETION SECTION


SIDEWAYS ARM INSTRUCTIONS:



The sideways operating arm is assembled from the parts shown, and can be mounted in either a left hand or right hand direction.

The parts are prepared by first carefully bending up the middle tab on the inner bar as shown to the usual 70-80 degrees.



Make sure you hold the bar opposite the tab firmly so the remainder of the bar stays flat.



Now the solid lever casing is placed onto the two insulating bushes as shown and the moving bar put into the slot, tab upwards, facing the Left or Right direction as desired.



The slotted lever casing is placed fully down on top, with the plastic bushes fully inserted through both sets of casing holes and the assembly is ready to mount. Hold the parts firmly together and remember to first slip the end of the operating first slip the end of the thin operating wire through the hole in the bar tab, before bringing the assembly into position on the end of the motor body. Keep the two casing parts firmly together and pressed fully down on the plastic bushes, then fasten the assembly firmly in place with the #2-56 bolts and nuts. Tightening the bolts down slightly will expand the plastic bushes sufficiently to hold the arm casing halves firmly together permanently. As with the other version, adding a little ACC glue to the bolt end threads will prevent the nuts from loosening in use.



The Side Arm assembly is now complete


WIRING AND COMPLETION:



Solder one of the 200 Ohm resistors to each of the motor power leads. We recommend twisting a loop in the end of each resistor, to both ease and identify connection to the control wiring after installation. Then solder a flying lead to the short piece of brass tube. This will later form the output line from the SPDT switch.



Finally, if using the SPDT power switch, solder flying leads to each of the two solder tags as power or signal inputs. Then slide the brass tube onto the end of the thick wire so that it is struck in the center as the wire moves between the two upright "wings" of each side plate. Add ACC glue to the ends of the tube so that it is fixed in place.



YOUR MOLE IS NOW FINISHED AND READY TO INSTALL!

For the