ILLUSTRATED INSTRUCTIONS FOR ASSEMBLING LAMINATED PROTO:87 FROGS(Minimal tooling, solder method)
Please read these instructions all
the way through first, before starting to build our frogs.
1. Place the frog kit on the
bench the same way up and round as shown above. Familiarize yourself with
the kit parts in place. A code 70 frog kit will have three long horizontal
framed sections as above. A code 55 kit will just have the lower two sections.
A code 83 kit may have an additional separate top section. Two thinner
metal tabs (seen between the large holes) hold each section to the next.
Each section has an alignment
pad with an 1/8 in. hole at each end. The two outer thin strips of metal
between the pads form a delicate, but fairly rigid, frame around each section
and prevent the inner frog parts proper from becoming distorted during
shipment and assembly. When handling, always hold the sections only by
the alignment pads, to prevent any distortion or damage to the frame. The
inner frog parts must not be removed from the frames until the assembly
process is complete.
The lowest section is the
frog base. The underside of the base (with the writing on it) is actually
upside down as supplied in the kit. This section will have to be turned
over later during assembly.
The next section up is the frog
top and is the correct way up as shown.
The third (and maybe fourth)
sections, if provided, are shims and can be used either way up.
It is normal for the frog kit
to be slightly bowed from left to right. This caused by the manufacturing
process and not by shipping. However if any of the frames are significantly
bent or otherwise damaged, contact us for advice BEFORE attempting to assemble
the frog kit.
2. Clamp down the kit and using
a firmly held Dremel with a thin ( 0.025 in. ) cut-off disc ( and proper
eye protection! ) or a fine razor saw, carefully separate the kit horizontally
into the individual separate sections, by cutting through the two tabs
between the sections.
3. These are the sections after
they have been separated. The base is still shown upside down.
4. Here are the tools you need
to hold the sections aligned during assembly. Clamps to hold the frog sections
firmly together and two 1/8 in. alignment dowels. We are using the
BLUNT ends of 1/8 in. drills for simplicity, but any accurate 1/8 th dia
solid rod or bush will do. Do not use 1/8 in. screws, drawn or threaded
rods, as the diameter will be way undersize.
You will also need some cored
"electronic" solder wire, some paste or liquid "electronic" ROSIN flux
and a fairly powerful electric soldering iron. but with a fine pointed
tip, in the 25 to 40 W range. Do not use "plumbing" solder or fluxes, (containing
Acid or Zinc Chloride) as these will cause corrosion of the frog in the
long term.
5. Using a mild detergent in
water, or a safe solvent, such as denatured alcohol, carefully rinse and
dry the frog parts so they are clean and free of any dirt or oily residues.
Make sure all the frames are in the correct Left to Right orientation as
as above. Turn the frog base over so it is the correct way up (lettering
on the bottom) and place the shim section(s) , if any, on top of it. Then
place the top section right way up on the very top.
Now place the sticky label provided
(not shown for clarity) over the top surface of the top of the frog.
This will help protect the top of frog from excess scratching during clamping.
Now apply just a thin film of FLUX over the INSIDE surfaces of the frog
parts where they touch each other. This will ensure proper solder flow
later.
Hold the sections together by
the alignment pads and insert an alignment dowel carefully through each
set of alignment holes. The fit should be tight initially, so a slow, but
firm, twisting motion may be needed until the dowels slide into place.
DO NOT DRILL THE HOLES OR USE THE CUTTING ENDS OF THE DRILLS
6. This is the way the frames
should look like with the dowels in place.
7. Gently clamp the
sections together as shown. Use small wooden blocks or similar (Not shown)
to support the clamps so that the frog kit is approximately upside down
as shown and perfectly flat. Then tighten the clamps just over finger tight.
8. Make a small sharp bend in
the end of the optional power connection wire provided so that it fits
in the cutout in the middle of the frog base. Tin that end of the
wire
9. With soldering iron, heat
the whole of the cutout and melt a pool of solder sufficiently, until
it runs and 2/3rds fills the cutout and touches all of the sections. Insert
the wire bent end and do not remove the iron, until the pool is fully liquid
again. This will not only fix the wire in place, but also solder the sections
together by capillary action. Add extra solder if necessary, but
do not completely fill the slot. You do not want to have any solder proud
of the frog bottom surface, or it will affect the frog height and you will
have to file it off later.
 <
10. This is the correct appearance
of the frog with withe cutout soldering completed.
11. Now using the iron and a
small amount of cored solder, carefully fully wet the INSIDE of all four
of the tabs that attach the fog parts to the alignment pads. Again the
soldering iron should held in place until the solder runs freely just into
the ends of the frog rails. This will cause the end rails of the frog to
be securely soldered together by capillary action also.
12. Here we see the appearance
after the tabs have been soldered. Note. It is important that the end rails
be securely soldered. It better to use a little too much, rather than too
little solder at this stage. Any excess can always be removed later with
a small swiss file.
13. With frog fully assembled,
the outer frame can be removed. Clamp the frame securely in place and using
either the firmly held Dremel with the thin cutoff wheel and eye protection,
or the razor saw, CAREFULLY, cut across the end tabs as shown. The frame
is no longer needed so it does not matter if that is also cut. Note:
Do NOT use excessive force, or cause OVERHEATING while cutting. This may
cause the end rails to bend or their solder joints to melt or break, or
both.
14. Congratulations! You now
have a completed frog. Remove the sticky label and carefully clean up any
excess solder. Please remember, even though assembled, this frog
is still a delicate, precision, fine scale component and should always
be handled with reasonable care to prevent damage or distortion.<
For finishing, we recommend
a chemical blackener such as "Blacken-it" if
you wish to darken the inside
of the flangeway. Painting the inside of the
flangeway is not recommended
and can affect both electrical and
mechanical reliable operation.
Painting and superdetailing the outside of the frog is, of course, no problem. |
HOME