BEFORE UNPACKING AND SAFETY
READ ALL THIS BEFORE YOU START UNPACKING!
When you receive your new SWITCH-WORKS package, you will find the main components are taped to a stiff back board to protect them from damage in transit. Before carefully removing them, you must be aware of that the parts are made of quite hard, thin stainless steel and have SOME SHARP EDGES AND CORNERS INTENTIONALLY, for precision alignment. Also they may even have some SHARP POINTED EDGE REMAINS of the holding tabs used in their manufacture, around the outside edges, which can cut your fingers, etc., if not first filed down completely smooth.
FOR SAFETY, FROM THE VERY OUTSET, you should be prepared to treat, handle and store the SWITCH-WORKS parts as carefully you would LONG SAW AND KNIFE BLADES.
DO NOT BEND THE PARTS! - The jig parts are made of stainless steel and while the TIEPLATE SETTING JIG is fairly flexible, the TIE FRAMER sides are meant to be rigid and they should always be kept flat, either in use or in storage. So please take care when removing them from the shipping support board and do not attempt to bend them, as they could end up permanently warped or kinked.
NOW YOU CAN REMOVE THE PARTS FROM THE BACK BOARD BY CAREFULLY CUTTING THE TAPE AROUND THE EDGES WITH A CRAFT KNIFE. Handle the loose parts very carefully and look for the remains of the tiny holding tabs in the places shown in the diagram below. The RED DOTS show the positions of the tabs. If any of these are still sharp, use a small file and/or an emery/sanding block to smooth all those to become completely safe before further handling or using the parts. Only when that is done, should you then remove any packing tape still stuck to the parts.
BECOMING FAMILIAR WITH SWITCH-WORKS
THE TIE FRAMER
REMOVABLE CROSS JOINERS ALLOW FOR CONSTRUCTION IN SITU,
OR ON THE BENCH.
The Tie framer has one straight and one curved side, linked by two cross joiners. These are aligned for use by first choosing the direction of the switch (RH or LH) and placing the side parts the appropriate way up and shape to get that desired direction. Note the end pairs of dowel holes are closer together at the diverging end of the straight side, matching those on the curved side. Insert three alignment dowels from underneath in the ends of the straight section and two more at the ends of the curved section as shown. These can be temporarily held in place for easy handling, by adding small pieces of "Scotch Tape" over the dowel bases. Then place the two joiners on top of the dowels as shown. The shorter joiner has three holes in order to set both sides in the proper relative postion lengthways, while the narrow joiner just keeps the wider ends of the framer sides the correct distance apart. LOCK JUST THE STRAIGHT SIDE IN PLACE, by inserting Push Pins fully down in the three small holes provided.
Note the dowels are deliberately a "sliding fit' in the holes, to make it quick and easy to lift the other parts SWITCH-WORKS tools on and off during the switch assembly processes. This means the lengthways positioning of the curved side by the short joiner will seem to be "sloppy" BEFORE you add any push pins to the curved side. While the correct positioning is when the short joiner is aproximately half way beween the two extremes of its "sloppy" movement, this position can be verified by temporarily adding a tie and placing the TIE SETTING JIG in its proper place on the dowels. The Curved side can then be adjusted until the tie fully blocks its far side straight tieplate aperture midway. ONLY THEN ADD THE PUSH PINS TO LOCK DOWN THE CURVED SIDE.
Once the sides are locked, you can add the ties. Even if the switch is being bench built, it helpls to use either a subbase that the ties can be glued to, or some easy to remove sticky tape as shown, to keep the ties from moving around to use
THE RAIL AND TIEPLATE SETTING JIG
THE RAIL AND TIEPLATE SETTING JIG ALSO DOUBLES AS A TRACK PLANNING TOOL,
WITH BOTH CENTER-LINES FOR DRAWING LINE POSITIONING -
AND GAUGE END MATCHING FOR PRECISE INSERTION OF A SWITCH
INTO EXISTING TRACKWORK