With "super details" added, the Ultimate Throwbars appear almost exactly like their prototype The latest ULTIMATE THROW BAR AND POINT HINGE COMBO KITS now come in two versions.


STANDARD VERSION DESIGN AND OPERATION:

(Coming) PICTURE STANDARD FRET AND PARTS

The standard version Ultimate Stainless Steel Throw bars come with functioning double throw bar units, which are carefully designed to split the work of moving properly hinged model points, formed from model rail, safely, while still using scale size appearing parts. The scientific design and use of modern stronger materials, like stainless steel, allows the throw bars to withstand reasonable pressures applied by model switch motors.

(coming) PICTURE FIRST THROW BAR

The longer or main throwbar, is coupled to the operating mechanism, and used to push the open point closed. As such, it can safely apply the force needed.

(Coming) PICTURE SECOND THROWBAR

The shorter, or second throwbar, is designed to float freely, and is only needed to link the two point rail bases together with its two hooks. The second throw bar then only causes the closed point to be pulled open as the open point is being pushed closed. As such it gently keeps the opening point lightly pressed against the trailing end of the main throwbar, without needing any of the traditional complicated joints, pins, bearings or soldering at the ends of the main throwbar. Thus the tiny stainless steel hooks are sufficient to handle the light load.

The use of the tiny hooks means that matching holes are needed in the point rail bases. Ultimate points come pre-drilled in codes 55, 70 and 83. But it is quite easy to manually drill #75 Holes, even by eye, in existing rail formed points.



SOLDERABLE VERSION DESIGN AND OPERATION:



SOLDERABLE FRET AND PARTS

For points not made from rail, and/or which may not have a sufficiently wide rail base to accept drilled holes, we have the "solderable version" throwbars, which are similar, but made of Nickel Silver and without hooks on the second bar. To prevent any melting of a plastic bar, during soldering, these are supplied with PCB material instead of plastic, and a mounting hole drilling jig in the center of the fret.

The operation can be similar to the standard version, or traditional. Soldering only the second bar ends to the point rails will allow the main throw bar to operate freely and prevent the formation of the dreaded "rigid parallelogram" which eventually causes metal fatigue in traditional "rigid soldered PCB Throwbar", that was frequently used on older style hand-laid turnouts. However, for those who for various reasons still need to solder the main throw bar ends to the points, this can be done. The joints and operation is much more reliable, as the ends of the rods can flex slightly to help preserve the joints. Now the second throw bar can be left to float, or soldered also.

GENERAL BASIC ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS:>

Al the latest kit parts comprise:

An appropriate size and type fret of two sets of divided rods. (for insulation of the points)
2 precision under bars of insulating material.
(pre-drilled plastic for standard, PCB strip for solderable)
The second bar is left long, but should be shortened to just fit under the stock rails as needed.

Note: The metal bars can be removed from the fret merely by bending them off. The tabs will snap away without the need for additional filing or clean up.
For assembly of the soldered version, follow the process below, but first drill the necessary holes in the PCB throwbar using a #76 drill (0.020"). Then solder whatever joints you choose to, based the operating choices described above.

Assemble the metal rods onto the plastic bars by adding a tiny amount of ACC or epoxy to the appropriate holes, then press the rods fully home with grips (pliers) using a crimping action between the jaws to clamp the rods down against the bottom of the bars.  Use the plain end bars for the operating rod and the hook end bars for the dummy rod.  Wait for the glue to cure before proceeding.

If you are using the second throw bar to operate existing rail built and hinged points (as in upgrading most commercial turnouts) then it is necessary to drill a small hole (#75 drill)  in the base of each point rail centrally between the ties where the second throw bar will fit. A hand held Dremel drill is ideal for this task and the hole should be drilled as close to the rail base web as possible. Always use proper safety eye protection whenever drilling. The dummy bar can be dropped in to place with the switch rails held apart. Then the hooks will snap into the holes, if they are eased carefully over the rail bases as the switch rails are moved back together.

Here we see the assembled switch rods in place between the switch ties. The hooks hide the drilled holes completely.  This example is an upgrading of an original style Micro Engineering Switch, but most good quality RTR and (hinged) hand laid switches can be upgraded this way just as easily.

The width of the plastic bar is a smooth sliding fit between standard gap width head ties. If it appears at all stiff or tight, shave the sides of the bar off until it runs completely freely and drops fuly to the bottom of the gap.   Note that the plastic bar is only half the height of a standard plastic tie, leaving space to paint it you ground or balast color and optionally glue a single cosmetic layer of ballast. Drill a hole in the end of the to take the operating wire coming from a switch machine or hand throw.

good basic appearance, cut small strips from some self-adhesive paper label material and press them down over the insulating gaps. These both hide the gaps, and also simulate the central bolted joiner strips on many real prototype rods, without adding details.



Color the paper and the rods a suitable dark grey or brown as per your prototype. We have deliberately left our rods plain in this instance, so they show up in the picture



Finally add the layer of ballast to hide the supporting insulating bars. The switch rails have been left uncolored for contrast.

These operating rod kits are intended for use with our own switch kits, upgrading good quality RTR switches, or for handlaid switches that use hinged points.  With a little care, the soldered version can usually be added to operate older hand-laid flex point style turnouts, provided the points are not too stiff.

ADDING "SUPER DETAILS"



The first stage of detailing is to cut the fine white plastic strip, with a craft knife, to fit down exactly between the raised ends of the throw bar rods. Glue them in place and make sure they are firm before proceeding.



Remove the adjuster plates from the fret and arrange them, so that they are in mirror matched pairs for each end of the throwbar. Next, glue the adjuster plates in the mirror pairs as shown, on top of the raised rod end, but not touching the point rails. About a 0.010" -0.020" gap is good. There is a shallow positioning slot in the underside of each adjuster plate which will help locate it in the right sideways position.



Finally, carefully position and glue the adjuster bar ends so their raised ends overlap the adjuster plates

The fully detailed throw bars may now be painted the appropriate, color for the trackwork metal parts on your model. We have left ours unpainted so that you can see the position of each of the individual parts.